Shorty vs Standard: How One Measurement Picks Your Track Bar Kit
By Dom Ruangnol
Most of the questions I get before someone orders a B.O.T.C.K. come down to one thing: Shorty or Standard? People try to answer it with the lift brand, the advertised lift height, or what a buddy ran on his truck. None of those are reliable. Two trucks with the same lift can sit at different heights depending on springs, load, bumpers, and how long the lift has been settling.
The good news is that the answer comes from one measurement you can take in your driveway in about ten minutes. Here is where to measure, what happens if you pick wrong, and what your options are once the kit is on the truck.
What do I measure and where?
You are measuring the height difference between the two ends of your rear track bar. That difference is what the correction kit is built to take out.
- Park on level ground. Garage floors are usually best. Let the truck sit at normal ride height with the tires on the ground and nothing jacked up. If you normally drive with a loaded bed or a heavy rear bumper, measure with that weight on.
- Find the frame-side bolt. The track bar runs side to side behind the rear axle. One end bolts to a bracket on the frame. Measure from the ground straight up to the center of that bolt.
- Find the axle-side bolt. The other end bolts to a bracket on the axle housing. Measure from the ground to the center of that bolt.
- Subtract. Frame side minus axle side. Write the number down.
Then match the result:
- Under 1.5 inches: the bar is still close to flat, and you may not need a correction kit at all yet.
- 1.5 to 2.99 inches: the Shorty, or the bottom hole on the Standard bracket.
- 3 inches or more: the Standard, using the top hole.
Measure twice, and measure to the center of each bolt, not the edge of the bracket. A half inch of error at the tape can land you on the wrong side of the 3 inch line. If you have just installed the lift, let it settle for a few hundred miles before you measure, since new springs often sit down a bit.
If you want the background on why a lifted truck needs this at all, our August post on whether you need a track bar correction kit after a 2 inch lift walks through the geometry.
What happens if I pick the wrong length?
The two versions exist because each one fits a different range. Picking outside that range does not break anything, but it does leave the job half done or create a new problem.
Shorty on a truck that needs the Standard. The Shorty raises the axle-side pivot less. On a truck with 3 inches or more of difference, the bar ends up flatter than stock-lifted but still not where it should be. The axle will still move sideways through its travel, just less, and you will keep feeling some of the wander you were trying to fix.
Standard on a truck that needs the Shorty. The Standard bracket sits taller. On a truck with a smaller difference, using the top hole can overcorrect the bar angle. The bigger practical issue is clearance: the product page notes that Standard height brackets can contact the frame at full suspension compression, which is true of every bracket on the market. Longer bump stops or a bump stop drop handle that, but the Shorty avoids it in the first place when your measurement allows.
You can see both versions for every platform we support in the B.O.T.C.K. track bar correction kits collection.
Can I change my mind after install?
Partly, and it depends on which version you bought.
The Standard has built-in room. It has two mounting holes. The top hole is for 3 inches or more of difference. The bottom hole puts the bar at the Shorty position for a 1.5 to 2.99 inch difference. So if you bought the Standard and your truck sits lower than you expected, or you later drop the lift, you can move the bar to the bottom hole without buying anything new. That is also why the Standard is the better pick if you plan to go taller later.
The Shorty has one position. If you install a Shorty and later lift the truck past 3 inches of difference, you will want a Standard.
Returns after install are not an option. Our return policy covers items that are unused, uninstalled, and in brand new condition with no signs of attempted installation. That is the main reason to take the measurement before ordering. If you have already ordered and have not installed it yet, contact us before sending anything back. Returns carry a 20 percent restocking fee, and we cover the return shipping label. Exchanges are available on unused parts, with shipping both ways on the customer.
While you are under the truck measuring, it is a good time to check the rest of the rear KDSS hardware too. The KDSS components collection lists the billet parts and the trucks each one fits.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I calculate the measurement?
Frame side minus axle side. Measure from the ground to the center of the frame-side track bar bolt, then from the ground to the center of the axle-side bolt, and subtract the second number from the first.
What is the restocking fee if I order the wrong one?
Returns carry a 20 percent restocking fee, and we cover the return shipping label. The part has to be unused, uninstalled, and in brand new condition, so contact us before you install if you think you ordered the wrong version.
Do you charge for shipping?
Shipping is free inside the US, with no minimum order. International shipping is calculated at checkout.
My measurement is exactly 3 inches. Which one?
The Standard, using the top hole. If you are right on the line and think the truck might settle lower, the Standard still covers you, since its bottom hole handles the Shorty range.
Does the measurement change with a heavy rear bumper or a loaded truck?
Yes. Added weight compresses the rear springs and lowers the frame-side bolt. Measure the truck the way you actually drive it most of the time.